🏆 Independent Rally Car: step-by-step build
Every wheel on its own springy arm, a differential, universal joints and Ackermann steering.
Rally cars fly over bumps, rocks and jumps. The secret: every wheel has its OWN arm and its own spring, so when one wheel hits a bump the other three stay on the ground. The back wheels are driven by the L motor through a differential. Because the wheels move up and down, the drive shafts need universal joints — bendy couplings that pass on the spin at an angle. At the front, the Servo steers through a rack, and the steering arms are angled so the inside wheel turns more than the outside one. That is called Ackermann steering. This is a big build — take it corner by corner, like a real race team.
- Level 5 of 5 (a big challenge)
- About 90 minutes
- 47 steps, 137 parts
- Powered by: Motor
- Series: Gearbox & Drivetrain Cars
What you will learn
- Suspension & Springs: Springs let wheels bounce over bumps while the body stays calm.
- Ackermann Steering: The inside wheel turns more than the outside wheel.
- The Differential: Lets the two driven wheels spin at different speeds in a turn.
- Universal Joint: Passes turning power around a bend.
- Servo Motor: A motor that turns to an angle and holds it.
- Remote Control: Invisible light carries your commands to the model.
- Mounting a Motor: A motor must be pinned tight, or it spins itself instead of your wheels.
- Plugging In: Power Functions: Battery box → (switch or receiver) → motor. Plugs stack like bricks.
- Triangles Are Strong: A triangle cannot be squished — a square can.
- Bushes & Spacers: Bushes stop things sliding off an axle.
- Steering: Turning the front wheels makes a car follow a curve.
- Rack & Pinion Steering: A gear rolling on a straight rack slides it sideways.
Build these first
- 🛻 Bouncy Monster Truck: Four big wheels on four springy shock absorbers. Boing, boing! (level 4 of 5, about 45 minutes, 29 steps)
- 🔒 Diff-Lock Mud Truck: Stuck in the mud? Slide the diff lock and both wheels are forced to turn together! (level 4 of 5, about 60 minutes, 33 steps)
Parts you need
- 2 × Beam 15
- 1 × L motor
- 3 × Axle 2
- 12 × Half bush
- 8 × Blue long pin
- 4 × Beam 3
- 48 × Black pin (grippy)
- 8 × Beam 7
- 3 × Beam 11
- 6 × Beam 5
- 1 × Servo motor
- 2 × Hard spring
- 4 × Suspension arm
- 7 × Axle 4
- 1 × Corner gear (12 teeth)
- 2 × Universal joint
- 2 × Axle 5
- 1 × Differential
- 3 × Bush
- 4 × Yellow-hub wheel
- 2 × Long pin-axle block
- 2 × Soft spring
- 2 × Axle 3
- 2 × Steering arm
- 2 × Cross block
- 1 × Gear rack
- 1 × Medium gear (24 teeth)
- 1 × AA battery box
- 1 × IR receiver
- 1 × Speed remote
Steps
- Stand a 15-hole beam on its edge — the right main rail.
- Drive motor: push a 2-long axle into the L motor's output and slide a half bush onto it, right against the motor.
- Motor posts: blue long pins through holes 5 and 11 of the rail, sticking out 2 on the inside, and a 3-hole post hanging down on each.
- Slide the L motor in from the left, output facing backwards: the blue pins go into its side holes. Push black pins through the bottom holes of the posts into the motor.
- Rear pivot beam: hold a 7-hole beam under the rail and push black pins through its 1st and last holes into the middle of the motor posts.
- Tall post: a black pin in hole 6 (inside) and an 11-hole post standing on it. Brace: a black pin in hole 3 (outside) and a 7-hole beam on it, leaning back towards the post.
- Rear shock tower: hold a 7-hole beam level between the post and the brace, and push a blue long pin through the brace's 6th hole, the tower and the post's 5th hole.
- A black pin in hole 8 of the rail and a 5-hole post on it, pinned at the top to the tower.
- …and another 5-hole post at hole 10.
- Black pins into the 2nd holes of the tall post and the first 5-hole post, pointing inwards, and slide the Servo onto them from the left, over the L motor.
- Front post: a 5-hole post pinned to the Servo's two front side holes.
- Front shock tower: a 7-hole beam pinned to the tops of the front post and the 6th hole of the tall post.
- Left side: push pins into the 4 left side holes of the motor — blue long pins in the top two, black pins in the bottom two.
- Press a 3-hole motor post onto each pair.
- Left pivot beam, pinned into the middle of the motor posts.
- Black pins into the Servo's 4 side holes on the left: 2 at the front, 2 at the back.
- Press the posts onto them: the 11-hole tall post and a 5-hole post at the back, a 5-hole front post at the front.
- Black pins in the bottom holes of the tall post and the 5-hole back post, pointing out, and press the left main rail onto all four pins.
- Left brace and rear shock tower, held by a blue long pin like on the right.
- Pin the tower to the back post, and add the last 5-hole post at hole 10.
- Left front shock tower.
- Right rear spring: hold a red (hard) shock absorber outside the tower and push a black pin through it into the tower's last hole.
- Right rear arm: a suspension arm outside the pivot beam, on a 4-long axle through the arm's front hole and the beam's 6th hole. A half bush on each end so the axle can't fall out — the arm still swings freely.
- Slide a tan corner gear onto the motor's axle. Hold a universal joint inside the arm's back hole and push a 5-long wheel axle through the arm into it; a 2-long half-shaft into its other end.
- Slide the differential onto the half-shaft from the left, its ring on the tan corner gear. Push a 2-long half-shaft into its other side and a universal joint onto that.
- A black pin through the arm's 3rd hole into the bottom of the spring. A bush and the right rear wheel on the wheel axle.
- Left rear spring.
- Left rear arm.
- A 5-long wheel axle through the left arm into the universal joint, the pin into the spring…
- …a bush and the left rear wheel.
- Right front corner: a suspension arm with a black pin in its 1st hole, and a long pin-axle block pressed on beside it.
- Push a blue long pin through the 3rd hole of the block and the arm so it sticks out 1 on the inside, and a yellow (soft) shock absorber onto it.
- A steering arm under the block, pointing backwards, on a 3-long king-pin axle. A half bush on the bottom end so the king pin can't fall out.
- Hold a cross block inside the steering arm, pin hole towards the back, and push a 4-long stub axle through the front wheel, the arm and the block.
- Hang the right front corner on the rail: a 4-long axle through the rail's 2nd hole and the arm's back hole, with a half bush on each end. A black pin through the front shock tower into the top of the yellow spring.
- Left front corner: a suspension arm with a black pin in its 1st hole, and a long pin-axle block pressed on beside it.
- Push a blue long pin through the 3rd hole of the block and the arm so it sticks out 1 on the inside, and a yellow (soft) shock absorber onto it.
- A steering arm under the block, pointing backwards, on a 3-long king-pin axle. A half bush on the bottom end so the king pin can't fall out.
- Hold a cross block inside the steering arm, pin hole towards the back, and push a 4-long stub axle through the front wheel, the arm and the block.
- Hang the left front corner on the same way, half bushes, spring pin and all.
- Tie rod: lay the red 11-hole beam flat under the two Ackermann cross blocks and push a black pin up through each end hole into a cross block.
- Lay the gear rack on the tie rod, teeth up.
- A 4-long axle into the Servo's output with a bush, a 24 pinion on the rack and a half bush on the front end.
- Radio pack: the AA battery box…
- …with 2 black pins in the low holes at its back end and the IR receiver pressed onto them.
- Lay the pack on the roof and pin its back ear to the tall posts: black pins in their 9th and 10th holes.
- Wiring: receiver cable onto the battery box. L motor → RED, Servo → BLUE. Grab the remote!
Play time
Make a bump course with pencils and a folded towel. Drive over it slowly and watch each wheel move on its own. Then drive tight circles: look how the inside front wheel is turned more than the outside one.
Real-world inspiration
Sariel's narrow independent suspension with a differential lock; double-wishbone and trailing-arm suspension in rally cars. https://sariel.pl/2020/10/narrow-independent-suspension-with-a-differential-lock/ · https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_wishbone_suspension