🚜 Skid-Steer Loader: step-by-step build
No steering at all: left motor, right motor — spin it round on the spot!
A skid-steer loader has no steering wheel. Its left wheels are driven by one motor and its right wheels by another. Both motors forwards: straight ahead. One forwards and one backwards: it spins round on the spot, skidding its tyres. On each side a row of three gears links the front and back wheels, so they always turn together. And the loader arms? You crank them up with a worm gear — it is so strong it holds the bucket up all by itself.
- Level 4 of 5 (tricky)
- About 65 minutes
- 25 steps, 76 parts
- Powered by: Multi-motor
- Series: Gearbox & Drivetrain Cars
What you will learn
- Remote Control: Invisible light carries your commands to the model.
- Idler Gears & Direction: A gear in the middle flips the direction back.
- Drive Train: The chain of parts that carries power from the motor to the wheels.
- Worm Gear: The Lock: A worm gear turns a gear super slowly — and never slips back.
- Four-Wheel Drive: Power goes to both axles so all four wheels push.
- Mounting a Motor: A motor must be pinned tight, or it spins itself instead of your wheels.
- Plugging In: Power Functions: Battery box → (switch or receiver) → motor. Plugs stack like bricks.
- Triangles Are Strong: A triangle cannot be squished — a square can.
Build these first
- 🪖 RC Tank: Two motors, two tracks, one remote. Spin on the spot and climb over anything! (level 4 of 5, about 60 minutes, 27 steps)
🏗️ Worm-Gear Crane: Crank the worm gear to lift the boom — then let go. It stays up by itself! (level 3 of 5, about 30 minutes, 15 steps)
Parts you need
- 2 × Beam 13
- 16 × Black pin (grippy)
- 3 × Open frame 5×11
- 4 × Axle 6
- 5 × Axle 5
- 10 × Half bush
- 2 × Giant gear (40 teeth)
- 2 × Medium gear (24 teeth)
- 2 × Beam 9
- 4 × Big tyre wheel
- 1 × L motor
- 3 × Tiny gear (8 teeth)
- 2 × L-beam 3×5
- 1 × AAA battery box
- 1 × IR receiver
- 2 × Dark giant gear (40 teeth)
- 1 × M motor
- 1 × Bush
- 1 × Double cross block
- 1 × Axle 9
- 1 × Axle 8
- 2 × Axle 11
- 2 × Axle joiner
- 1 × Worm gear
- 1 × Hand crank
- 2 × Beam 15
- 2 × Cross block
- 1 × Speed remote
Steps
- Right side: stand a 13-hole hull beam on its edge, push black pins into holes 3 and 7 (outside) and press a 5×11 frame onto them, lying long-ways — the tower.
- Push 6-long axles through the front and back wheel holes, and a 5-long idler axle in between (4 holes from each). A yellow half bush on the inside end of the back axle.
- A giant 40 gear on each wheel axle and a 24 on the idler. They mesh in a row: 40 · 24 · 40. A half bush on the front axle, next to its gear.
- Slide a 9-hole outer beam onto the three axles and push on the two big wheels.
- Right motor: black pins in holes 11 and 13 of the right hull beam, pointing inwards, and the L motor on them — output pointing right, 3 holes behind the back wheel.
- A 5-long axle through the hull into the L motor with a tiny 8 gear on it, meshing with the back 40, and a half bush on the end.
- Worm stand, right half: black pins in the 9th and 11th top holes of the right tower (outside) and a small L-beam on them inside, its short arm standing up at the 8th hole.
- Radio pack: the AAA battery box…
- …with the IR receiver pressed onto its front half, window side on the right.
- Push black pins into the 3rd and 5th top holes of the right tower, pointing inwards, and hang the pack on them by the receiver's 2 back holes.
- Left side: stand a 13-hole hull beam on its edge, push black pins into holes 7 and 11 (outside) and press a 5×11 frame onto them, lying long-ways — the tower.
- Push 6-long axles through the front and back wheel holes, and a 5-long idler axle in between (4 holes from each). A yellow half bush on the inside end of the back axle.
- A giant 40 gear on each wheel axle and a 24 on the idler. They mesh in a row: 40 · 24 · 40. A half bush on the front axle, next to its gear.
- Slide a 9-hole outer beam onto the three axles and push on the two big wheels.
- Left motor: black pins in holes 1 and 3 of the left hull beam, pointing inwards, and the M motor on them — output pointing left, 3 holes in front of the front wheel.
- A 5-long axle through the hull into the M motor. Slide on a bush, a tiny 8 gear meshing with the front 40, and a half bush.
- Worm stand, left half: black pins in the 6th and 8th top holes of the left tower (outside) and a small L-beam on them inside, short arm standing up at the 9th hole.
- Hold a double cross block standing up next to the right small L-beam and push a 9-long axle from the outside through the right tower, the L-beam's corner and the block's bottom hole (it ends flush with the tower, so the loader arm can swing past it). Then an 8-long axle through the top of the L-beam and the block's top hole, with a yellow half bush on its outside end.
- Slide the left side onto the two axles sticking out of the block: they go through its small L-beam and its tower. Lock the top axle with a half bush outside the left L-beam — now the two sides are clamped together and the worm stand can't nod.
- Loader pivot: hold an axle joiner, a tiny 8 gear and another axle joiner in a row between the small L-beams and push an 11-long axle through the 11th top holes of both towers, the L-beams and all three. The joiners are spacers: they keep the 8 gear in the middle.
- Slide a 5-long axle through the middle hole of the double cross block with a half bush and a worm gear right on top of the pivot 8 gear, and the crank on its back end, snug against the worm.
- A half bush on the front end of the worm axle stops it sliding out. Loader: slide a 15-hole arm onto the right end of the pivot axle. Hold a cross block (round hole at the bottom) just inside the arm's front hole and push an 11-long axle through both.
- Slide a second cross block onto the front axle, then the left arm onto the pivot axle and the front axle at the same time. Push a black pin into each cross block's round hole, pointing forwards.
- Press a 5×11 frame onto the two pins, standing across — the bucket. It tips a little on the front axle, so it always scoops flat.
- Wiring: receiver cable onto the battery box. Left motor → RED, right motor → BLUE. Grab the remote.
Play time
Set up a "building site" with toy bricks. Drive to a pile, crank the bucket down, push, crank it up and carry the load. Try spinning on the spot on carpet and on a smooth floor — where does it skid more easily?
Real-world inspiration
Skid-steer loaders like the Bobcat. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skid-steer_loader
Build next
- 🚧 Twin-Motor Dozer: Wide caterpillar tracks, one motor per track, and a blade that cranks up with a worm gear. (level 5 of 5, about 100 minutes, 33 steps)